A & H imaging: Blog http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog en-us (C) A & H imaging (A & H imaging) Mon, 04 Jan 2016 19:32:00 GMT Mon, 04 Jan 2016 19:32:00 GMT To clean a stove http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/to-clean-a-stove When you're ready to get stuck in with the proper cleaning of your stove, remember to never use wire wool*, scouring pads*, sandpaper, scraper or brasso.  Seriously, people have used such things and marred their stoves beyond visual recovery...  Brasso is a hidden ill - it seems like the perfect cleaning solution, however it contains ammonia which has been noted to make the particular brass that these stoves are made of susceptible to stress cracking (which is very bad).

*Sometimes, and for certain parts of the stove, you may want to use these, albeit with great care & in a "safe" manner.

Now, with a mild soapy solution/detergent, clean the stove carefully (don't use anything that is too abrasive - you may get away with an old & worn non stick safe scourer, or you may not...).  You might have areas of green on the brass (verdigris) which you can either treat with strips of kitchen paper soaked in distilled vinegar or with BarKeepers Friend (follow the instructions!).

You've already cleaned the inside of the tank out if you followed the last post, but if not, go to the last post to find out how you can do it!

Now you can polish the tank up with Begom Alu or Autosol (or similar) and a soft lint free cloth.  If you don't want your fingers getting black (and I do mean black) then wear cotton, nitrile or latex gloves when doing this.  No it's not kinky, it just stops you looking like a coal miner at work the next day.

 

Polished tank with an NRV removal tool in front.

So far so good - after a few hours work, the tank is nice and shiny.  What about the burner though?  This will be coated in soot and isn't going to be particularly nice to clean...

You are going to need replacement heat-proof washers after following the next step.

Separate the burner assembly from the riser tube and spirit cup.  Note the order of disassembly and where the various heat-proof washers are.

The riser tube will clean nicely as the tank did.  The spirit cup may need a little extra work - start to work on the black bits with the previously used non-stick safe scourer and if that doesn't work, use the finest wire wool that can be got (I think it's 000 or 0000).  For the burner head I suggest that some work with a scourer (the burner is a harder alloy than the tank so isn't going to scratch as easily) and a weak detergent solution will help get the worst off.  Other useful tools here include a small brass wire brush to clean the burner.

You will need a special tool for the next stage.

To clean the inside of the burner, we need a purpose made nipple removal tool (a pointer here - some of the available tools on e-bay may not fit the nipple - don't force it, either file out the tool, or get one from base-camp.co.uk).  We need to remove the nipple (keeping it safe) and then either soak the burner in a weak solution of caustic soda to remove the carbon from inside (NOT recommended as it is EVIL stuff!) or we heat the burner (don't do this inside) with a blow torch until the colour changes (don't heat it cherry red!!!) and plunge it into a bucket of cold water.  Empty the burner of water and repeat this until the carbon stops coming out of the burner (3 or 4 times usually).  Now metal gets HOT when heated!  Use mole grips or similar to hold the burner by the "nut" when you do this and maybe wear gloves.  When done, blow through from the bottom of the burner (wait until it's cold!) and it should now be clear :)

You will now need to remove the remains of the heat proof washer from the burner (that sits on top of the spirit cup) and off the spirit cup.  You may need to use a jewellers screwdriver carefully to assist in removing all traces (without scratching the metal) and ensuring that the "groove" is clear.  Be careful as these are sometimes asbestos based.  If you are worried, clean the washer off under water with a suitable tool.

You can now warm the burner (if you want) and soak the burner in distilled vinegar for around 15 minutes to help in final cleaning.  Rinse off (and through) well with cold water (if you can pump high pressure air or water through the burner to remove any last bits of carbon, do so!) and polish the burner with whatever you're using.

The nipple can now be replaced by a new one or the old one cleaned up and the jet orfice pricked (with the correct pricker) and can be installed in the burner (take care not to cross thread it as this will ruin the burner!).  Yes this step is annoying.  And time consuming.  The easiest way is to use a little blu-tack to hold the nipple in the tool (to stop it falling out) and to turn the nipple antil-clockwise to start with (it helps it "locate") and then tighten it up slowly and carefully...

Base of riser tube & lead washer

There is a lead washer in the base of the riser tube (on the part that screws onto the tank) for most stoves.  This may need to be removed and replaced.  Re-assemble the burner ensuring that there is a heatproof washer above the spirit cup (and sometimes one below - you did make a note of how it came apart?).  Tighten up using spanners NOT pliers and ONLY grip the nuts.  Don't overtighten.

All well and good!  Your stove should be nice & shiny and your burner should be ready for use.  But what about the other washers & seals?

The pump washer will probably need replacing.  Sefaudi on e-bay does awesome pump washers and he comes HIGHLY recommended.

Please refer to the above photo.  You can see the old pump washer in front of the pump shaft and other components.  The small nut holds the pump washer on the end and the brass threaded collar holds the pump washer.  The large nut screws onto the brass collar and the nut goes inside the pump washer (common sense!).  The whole assemble slids onto the narrower bit of the pump shaft with the open end of the washer towards the end (i.e. where the little nut goes).  Soak the pump washer in oil for a good long while (overnight, or longer if possible) - remember, not vegetable oil!

Replace the washer in the fill cap - the old one may need to be broken out using a jewellers screwdriver.

If you get the dreaded "Viagra Effect" when pressurising the tank, the NRV (inside the pump tube) may need to be removed to have the "pip" replaced.  There may be a washer in the bottom of the pump tube for the NRV which may need replacing too.

A complete NRV with a disassembled one above.  The springs break and weaken and may need replacing.  The brass cup holds the pip (which may need to be dug out).  Service the NRV and replace.

Once all the seals have been replaced and it all cleaned, it should look a bit like this.  This is the same stove from the previous post.

Prime the stove

And add pressure as the meths is almost all burnt off

If the flame tips are very yellow (or the flame is all to one side of the burner) you will need a new nipple as the old jet is either damaged or too worn.

A little yellow in the tips is fine and usually goes away with a pan on top.  Now you can add the pan supports and use your stove!

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Autosol NRV Viagra Effect blow torch blow-torch blue flame classic camp stoves cotton gloves latex gloves meths nitrile gloves prime pump cups pump washer sefaudi stove cleaning two by two hands of blue yellow tips http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/to-clean-a-stove Sat, 17 Aug 2013 16:06:42 GMT
So you have a stove... http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/so-you-have-a-stove If you've managed to pick up a nice brass pressure stove, what next?

All the following information is available on the Classic Camp Stoves forum.  Please feel free to search there for hints & tips and stuff.  It is, afterall, where I picked up most of the things I know!!!

Furst First we'll give the stove a gentle clean with a mild detergent (like fairy liquid) and gently clean the stove with something similar to a non-stick safe scouring pad or sponge - you just want to clean the worst of the grot off so you can handle it!  You should find that a lot of the muck will clean right off.  Take care not to scratch the brass any more than it is already.

We have here from top left, spirit can (this woud be for meths), storage tin, cleaned tank.  From middle left, flame ring, burner assembly, pot stands (only two - there should be three), fill cap, pressure release screw, reserve lid.  From bottom left, spanner (for attaching & removing burner) and pump assembly, pump knob, pump cap and pump shaft complete with washer.  Newspaper is a MUST - do not anger the domestic authorities!!!

What we want to do now is see if the tank holds pressure.  Unscrew the pump tube cap and pull the plunger out slowly.  Hopefully, you will find an old pump leather still intact (or even better, a newish one in good condition!).  Soak the leather in some three-in-one oil or motor oil until it's supple and replace the pump.  Now tighten down the fill cap and pressure release screw and put your finger over where burner screws onto the tank.  Pump the pump!  You should feel resistance and you should feel air trying to push your finger off the top of the tank.  Now submerge the tank in water (still with your finger on top) and watch for bubbles!

Watch for

  • Pump knob not moving when you pump - this suggests a stuck NRV (non return valve)
  • Pump knob & shaft sliding back out of the pump tube ("Viagra Effect") - this indicates an issue with the NRV
  • Bubble from pump tube - this indicates an issue with the NRV
  • Bubbles from the fill cap - this is just a straight forwards seal to change
  • Bubbles from elsewhere - hope that they're tracking or your finger is loose on the top of the tank as otherwise, you're going to get good at soldering brass...

As a guide, expect to replace every seal in the stove when you rebuild it, including the pump leather.  Thankfully, kits are readily available from http://www.fettlebox.co.uk/ but you may find yourself popping over to base-camp.co.uk for other parts.

Ok, so lets assume that the tank holds pressure.  Now you want to clean the inside of the tank out well with a warm weak soapy water (some use soda crystals in solution) and clean the accumulated cr*p out of the tank.  Rinse well with hot water & let to dry.  Rinse the stove out with isopropyl alcohol (or similar) and dry.

Now attach the burner to the tank and snug it down and pump!  You're going to listen for the air coming out of the jet of the burner (you can always put this bit in water and watch for results).  If no air comes out, you are either going to need to replace the jet (or prick it out with the corret size pricker) and/or clean the burner assembly.

If the burner isn't blocked you can put some paraffin in the stove and do a trial burn.  Don't fill more than 1/4 full at this point.  Never do your first burn of a new stove indoors or near flammable stuff and NEVER USE PETROL IN A PARAFFIN STOVE!!!

Ok, to do a test firing, make sure the stove is in a draught free place.  Close the fill cap well BY HAND ONLY and open the pressure relief screw.  Fill the spirit cup with meths (don't fill it right to the top) and always ALWAYS mop up spillages.  Light the meths in the spirit cup and wait!  As the meths burns down to the bottom of the spirit cup, tighten the pressure relief screw.  If you have a silent burner wait for the meths to extinguish.  If you have a roarer burner, pump the stove up until you get ignition!  If you get a jet of liquid paraffin, stop pumping, release the pressure (using the pressure relief screw) and re-prime with meths.  With a silent burner, pressurise the stove with a lighter near the cap so it burns outside of the cap (just like with a gas stove).

Now hopefully you have a good (blue) flame from your stove.  Watch and see if the flame dies down quickly (indicating a pressure leak) or continues strongly.  Watch for a yellow flame coming from anywhere it shouldn't and also look for white vapour escaping from anywhere

If the flame does die down, let out the pressure and wait for it all to cool.  Nothing should be warm.  Empty the paraffin into an old coke bottle and then pressurise the stove again, block the jet of the burner with your little finger (or something that isn't going to get stuck in the jet) and place stove under water to look for leaks.  It's hopefully just a lead washer or one of the seals around the spirit cup that needs changing.

If you didn't get to do the trial burn, don't worry!  Part of the fun with old stoves is getting them going and cleaning them up!

Cleaning full service next ;)

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Stove Viagra Effect basecamp classic camp stoves fettlebox first burn first lighting kerosine meths paraffin http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/so-you-have-a-stove Sat, 17 Aug 2013 15:31:43 GMT
No case? http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/no-case Ok, we have a stove with no case?

This shouldn't be a problem!  Let me show you the tins that two of our 96 type stoves came in.

Anyone for OXO? Yup, OXO.  The best bit is that on the side of one of the lids it says "Perfect as a Lunch Box".  See, people back then were smart and knew how to re-use and re-purpose things.  And packaging didn't just create landfill.  Perhaps, as a society we could learn from them?!

I doubt that you'll be lucky enough to come across lots of oxo tins though.  Thankfully, Amazon has an answer.

A small child's lunchbox!  Dimensions ARE important as otherwise you won't close the lid...

Or let's check the army & navy store.

Or for a larger stove (an 00 size in this instance), a Zebra Head stainless billy can.

What can you find for yours?  A Dr Who themed box from HMV?  Let us know ;)

 

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Army & Navy Billy Can Dr Who Environmental Awareness Lunch Box OXO Recycling Stove Zebra Head land fill packaging http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/no-case Wed, 14 Aug 2013 08:00:00 GMT
Report from the Bay of Evil http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/report-from-the-bay-of-evil A quick report from a cruise of the dangerous waters of the Bay of Evil.

Various classic camp stoves in various states of repair or completeness have been sighted!

Unfortunately, there aren't as many bargins at present as there used to be - hopefully that'll change as the camping season closes and winter starts.

A brief report of the skirmish follows:

  • Optimus 111 (embossed case, so an older model) either a Kerosine or Petrol model, missing filler cap and case rusty. £22
  • SVEA 121 stove, later model. £28
  • Primus 96, older model, not perfect condition, but original tin in reasonable condition. £16 [The buyer got an absolute bargin!]
  • Primus 96, later model, pretty good condition, tin not original. £33
  • Monitor Touring Stove equivalent to Primus 96, missing some parts. £15
  • Primus 96, missing flame plate. £24
  • Veritas 2 pint collapsible stove. Unsold. Start price £30 [IMHO asking about £10 too high!]
  • Optimus 45 1 3/4 pint stove.  Later model.  Reserve not met.  Bid @ £26. [Reserve price too high - seller desperate for cash or has too high expectations IMO]
  • Really nice Radius 21 in original tin. £23.01 [a REAL bargin!]

There are still stoves out there!  Find a stove that is complete, even if it's grotty (as long as it's not dented or badly scratched) and work out how much you are willing to pay for it!

Look out for these makes which may be cheaper - don't be tempted to pay over the odds unless you REALLY want it!

  • Veritas
  • Parasene
  • RM [don't be fobbed of by sellers claiming it's a "Primus" - it's a Primus type NOT a Primus stove and is not as good quality IMHO]
  • Burmos [can have poor quality control so beware!]
  • Monitor
  • Buflam
  • Valor

Other Manufacturers

  • Primus
  • Optimus
  • Radius
  • SVEA
  • Thermidor
  • Coleman
  • MEVA
  • Hipolito

I encourage you to do your own research before bidding!

Have we finished yet?

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Bay of Evil Buflam Burmos Buying a Stove Cat Coleman Cute Cat E-Bay Hipolito MEVA Monitor Optimus Parasene Primus RM Radius SVEA Stove Thermidor Valor Veritas http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/report-from-the-bay-of-evil Mon, 12 Aug 2013 17:53:34 GMT
Loud or Quiet? http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/loud-or-quiet What is it about youngsters that they seem to think that anything "loud" is good?  Loud exhaust pipes on standard cars (the ubiquitous "Fart Cannon") or on modern two-stroke scooters/motorcycles.  Loud can be annoying - especially when it's an annoying noise that's loud!

Now if it is the sonorous tones of an old V8 or a classic car/motorcycle that is loud, it can be pure music to the discerning ear (even if it isn't to your neighbour at 06:00 in the morning...).

Now lets consider the effect of relative silence.  All sounds appear magnified - a sound that is barely audible in the day is REALLY loud at night - you can even hear snails munching their way through your herb garden at night!

A perfect example of this is one of our cats (that is sadly no more) had issues with the cat flap and patience, if his magnet didn't release the cat flap in time he'd resort to the tried and tested method of battering it down with his paws to get in.  This would usually work as either the cat flap would be forced open or we'd hear the noise and open the door for him!  This may be considered to be spoiling your cat but that little fella was smart enough to pick up something in the garden and use it as a battering ram - just glad cats don't have opposable thumbs...  He eventually got the hang of the "wait for the click" business and things calmed down - until (there's always an UNTIL isn't there?) one morning, although it was technically morning it most certainly didn't feel like it(!), at 02:00 we were woken up by the sound of an almighty BANG followed by a succession of equally loud BANGs.  It was just as if the little swine had finally found a battering ram and was playing "storm the keep".  Except it wasn't (of course!) but just in the still morning (technically) air when no sound was around, the noise made by a little cat's paws on a plastic cat flap was magnified to horrendous proportions.  And it echoed.  Boy did it echo.  (Sorry neighbours - again!).  I'm not sure what was louder, the human in a haze of sleep and desperately wanting to return to the nice warm comfortable bed stumbling around and walking into everything to get downstairs to open the door for the (now) happy and VERY friendly cat, or the original racket!

What does this have to do with stoves? The traditional burner on a (proper) stove is called a roarer burner...

Yup.  In an enclosed space they are NOT quiet.  At unseemly o'clock on a campsite they are also going to be noisier.  Thankfully, it's easy enough to "gag" it - first put a windscreen around it then put the kettle on!  Actually using the stove is going to cut out a lot of noise :)  Just don't put the whistle on the kettle at night eh? ;)  Depending on the campsite you may (of course) not want to muffle the stove...!  It is a pleasant noise though, unlike some nocturnal sounds...

Optimus No. 1 stove with roarer burner

Optimus No. 1 stove with roarer burner There are silent burners available although they are mostly to be found on the larger (basecamp) stoves as they are very sensitive to wind, both in the priming stage and in use.  If one is clever one could create a hybrid, using a silent burner on a 1 pint stove.  Or one could use one of the Coleman stoves (or a gas stove).  Or better still, you could just be smart about where and when you brew up!  Remember that although sound carries REALLY well at night, your stove is still going to be quieter outside than if you were using it in your garage as you don't have four walls and a roof to contain the noise :)

Primus No. 10 stove with silent burner

Primus No 10 stove with silent burner Notice the difference between the two burner heads?  With the roarer burner you get four "sheets" of flame which gives you the noise, on the silent burner, you have lots of little "flamelets" (like on a gas stove).

You might have already guessed that even if a silent burner isn't the best for use outdoors, it is ideally suited to use indoors!  Yes, that's right, indoors!  Perfectly safe, just need to exercise caution with the priming phase and make sure that any reflected heat (or heat transferred through the legs isn't affecting the surface it's on - yes, the COMMON SENSE rule applies here - don't put it on anything that might catch fire!

Oh, even if you aren't using your stove at night, please do remember that ALL SOUND CARRIES REALLY WELL AT NIGHT.  If you're on the same camp site as us and you disturb our sleep...

Obligatory animal/cute pic follows.  No it didn't get turned into lunch either as we didn't have the air rifle handy, it just got shot with a camera instead ;)

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Cute Cat Kitty Optimus Primus Pussy Rabbit Radius Rampant Rabbit SVEA brass camp camping classic classic camp stoves gag gas kerosine night noise outdoors paraffin petrol roarer burner silent burner stove http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/loud-or-quiet Sat, 10 Aug 2013 23:44:20 GMT
Size Does Matter! http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/size-does-matter So if you have decided that you would like a paraffin pressure stove, what next?  Well by the title of this post you'll be expecting that there is, of course, something else to consider...

And that something is SIZE!  Yes, size does matter.  And by that, I'm referring to the size of the stove.  You see, if there's only one or two of you hiking, you probably don't want to be carrying around a large base-camp size stove and if there's four of you camping, you probably want something a bit bigger than the Primus/Optimus 96 stove shown in my last post.

With paraffin pressure stoves, there are several common sizes.  The capacity in pints is how much paraffin the tank can hold.

  • 1/2 pint [e.g. Optimus/Primus 96]

Primus 96

  • 1 pint [e.g. Optimus 00, Primus 210]

Primus 210

  • 1 3/4 pint [e.g. Optimus 45]

Optimus 45

  • 2 pint [e.g. Optimus 1, Optimus/Primus 5]

Optimus 1

There are, of course, bigger stoves out there but they will be hard to find or expensive (and we're "keeping it simple" here)!

All but the 2 pint stoves are basically "packable" - in other words, they can be partially dismantled so they can fit in a box (although there are "packable" 2 pint stoves, but good luck finding them - and if you do, please share photos on CCS!)

As a basic rule of thumb, the 1/2 pint stove is a 1 - 2 man stove, the 1 pint stove a 2 - 3 man stove and the 1 3/4 pint stove is for 3 - 4 (or more).  The 1 3/4 pint is a "base-camp" stove really - it's not suited to being carried in a backpack unlike the 1/2 or 1 pint stoves!  The 2 pint stoves are also base-camp and home cooking stoves.

Here is a comparison...

Comparison of Stove Sizes: L-R, Primus 96, Primus 210, Optimus 45, Optimus 1 Left to Right: Primus 96, Primus 210, Optimus 45, Optimus 1.

The different stoves are not just different sizes, they also have different size burners and have different heat outputs.  There's info out there (see http://www.spiritburner.com/fusion/index.php) on the different heat outputs for different burners, but I'm not going in to it here!  As a basic guide, assume that from the 1/2 to the 1 3/4 pint stove, heat output increases!

Hopefully, this gives you an idea of which size stove you want - you could of course get one of each!  If you do, beware the Dark Side (known to mere mortals as compulsive stove purchasing!) :)

Next I hope to address the vexed question of loud or quiet.  It's not just a matter of personal preference ;)

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Cute Cat Kitty Omnifuel Optimus Primus Pussy Radius SVEA brass camp camping classic classic camp stoves gas outdoors paraffin petrol size matters stove http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/size-does-matter Thu, 08 Aug 2013 18:51:51 GMT
Paraffin vs Petrol http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/paraffin-vs-petrol It's pretty apparent that I prefer the classic stoves over the more modern ones!  That doesn't mean that I don't own a few of the more recent stoves though!  However, an important consideration for me is which fuel.

Simply put, pressure stoves can use paraffin or petrol (and some meths too but we'll ignore that for now!)

This is a small paraffin stove - the Primus 96.  It's a one - two man stove but with a lot of power for its small size!

Primus 96 paraffin camp stove This is a stove I will happily use indoors (safely) which I have done on many occasions - it's perfect for brewing coffee on in the perculator which can't be used on a modern electric hob...

This is a small petrol stove - the Optimus 80.  It's a one man stove only - the tin underneath is a combined tin AND pot holder so that gives you an idea of the size of pots that can be used with it (hint, not very large!).  The SVEA 123 in my previous post also runs on petrol but one can use larger pots on it!

Optimus 8- petrol stove Funnily enough, I don't use this indoors...  Interestingly, it is safe enough to use indoors if nothing goes wrong and it doesn't overheat.  If it does overheat, there is a safety valve.  If that opens, pressure is released from the stove body along with a cloud of petrol vapour.  I shouldn't need to explain why this could be very bad - especially indoors!  (Remember that the stove would still be lit at the time of the pressure release and that petrol vapour is highly flammable).

So why does the Optimus 80 have an automatic pressure relief valve and the Primus 96 not?  Simply, the Optimus 80 self pressurizes, there is no pump to pressurize the fuel as due to the volativity of petrol it isn't needed (unless you're in the arctic!).

With the Primus 96, the flame is easily controllable by manually opening the pressure relief valve (vent) to reduce flame and pumping with the built in pump to increase the flame - the paraffin vapour released doesn't catch fire!

Now there are Coleman stoves out there that are much safer than the venerable Optimus 80 (and being bigger are much more useful!) however, the issue of the low vapour point of petrol still remains an issue.  Interestingly, our dual fuel Coleman (dual feather) runs hotter on paraffin (using the paraffin "generator") than on petrol (using the petrol "generator") so a comparable paraffin stove cooks quicker than a petrol one...

To be completely fair, there is one advantage that the petrol stoves have over paraffin stoves (especially the older ones with no quick light function) and that is that the same fuel can be used to prime the stove whereas with paraffin stoves you need to either have flammable alcohol gel or some meths handy.

As paraffin is so much safer (especially when things go wrong) it is a fuel I am much more comfortable using, more so since others that are less familiar with this sort of technology use my stoves too!

CUTE!!!

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Coleman Cute Cat Kitty Optimus Primus Pussy Radius SVEA Whisperlite alcohol brass camp camping classic classic camp stoves fireball gas outdoors paraffin petrol safety stove http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/paraffin-vs-petrol Sat, 03 Aug 2013 22:02:40 GMT
Why retro? http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/why-go-retro SVEA 123 - classic petrol stove

I guess it's odd to some people why anyone would want to have an "old" car or an "old" motorbike.  Somehow you're assumed to be either rich or odd.  I suppose that the second one applies even if the first doesn't...

It gets even better when you use the old brass camp stoves or pressure lamps.  People can't understand why you don't use a new gas stove or a battery lantern.  So why do I bother?

Simply put, for the price of a new paraffin/multifuel stove you can get maybe four (or more!) classic stoves.  They LOOK great and you get the satisfaction of refurbishing an old (and tarnished) stove to nearly as-new condition.  Yes it does take time and effort but the rewards are well worth it!

There's also very little difference in performance between a modern paraffin stove and an old Primus!  The old stoves are so well designed that they have similar (or identical) heat output.

So if a classic stove is really this great, why don't more people use them?  Why do rivet counters in the classic car and land rover scene who are anal about being 100% accurate with their restorations use more modern stoves and not an older stove?  Having used many different stoves over the years, one answer is convenience!  In the time it takes to prime and light a paraffin stove, a gas stove is already lit.  The gas is in a nice convenient canister and it's just "plug and play".  Unfortunately, as those of us that have older gas stoves have found out, occasionally those nice convenient canisters of gas stop being available.  You then have to either buy a new stove (expensive) or find some way of re-filling an old canister (potentially dangerous).  The canisters for the new gas stoves also aren't cheap!

Have a look at the below, from left to right, a new campinggaz screw on burner, a 1980's campinggaz Bluet and a classic SVEA 123.  Which would you prefer?

Which would you rather?

So instead of a gas stove, we could get an Optimus Omnifuel or similar - a great modern stove that runs on paraffin or petrol or meths.  Yes it'll light quicker, but how long is it going to last?  Odds are it won't be usable after twenty years, let alone eighty.  Yes there really are brass pressure stoves that old that still work just as well as the day they were made!!  Unfortunately, modern stoves just aren't as well made as older kit and are going to need more care to ensure they don't break.

For me, a classic pressure stove is the perfect camp stove - cheap, durable, easy to fix, easy to light and reliable.  The fuel is easy to get hold of too and even at current over-inflated prices is still cheaper than buying gas canisters!


Cute!

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Cute Cat Kitty Omnifuel Optimus Primus Pussy Radius SVEA Whisperlite brass camp camping classic classic camp stoves gas outdoors paraffin petrol stove http://aandhimaging.zenfolio.com/blog/2013/8/why-go-retro Sat, 03 Aug 2013 19:10:14 GMT